Jikoni

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http://www.jikonilondon.com

Brunch on Saturday: Jikoni review and a couscous pancakes recipes

The petal pink exterior of Jikoni stands out in contrast to its grey, muted neighbours in London’s Marylebone.

The printed flowery curtains, an ostentatious display of potted plants and wicker chairs visible from its exterior bring back an instant wave of nostalgia that is hard to identify on first approach.

The mix of influence has a clear source for Bhogal, a Kenyan-born Indian-British chef couldn’t possibly have settled for a theme like her neighbours – there is no eggs benedict on this brunch menu.

From the décor to the menu, the exciting mix of modern and traditional ingredients and dishes from all over the world create a story – an exact character that embodies the Jikoni experience.

Add the chopped tenderstem, feta, garlic, mint, parsley, chilli, eggs, salt and pepper to the couscous and mix thoroughly.

Jikoni Restaurant Review: London's Best New Romantic Eatery

Opening on upmarket Blandford Street in Marylebone at the end of last year, the name means ‘kitchen’ in Swahili and it describes itself as a ‘a neighbourhood restaurant’, serving food that draws on Bhogal’s mixed heritage of East African, Middle Eastern, Asian and British.

The big Jikoni theme is homeliness, with a menu offering ‘soothing’ food that serves as a tribute to the wisdom of mother figures who have passed down their kitchen skills.

The food: Colourful English/American comfort food with an Asian twist (or vice versa, hard to tell) – all cooked with a light hand and plenty of unusual spices and flavours.

The Sweet Potato Bhel, £7, was like a vegetable version of a banana sundae – a great long strip of succulent sweet potato, drizzled in creamy, yoghurty sauce and nuts.

For our main course, I moved on to the Lobster Khichdee, £24 – a whole meaty lobster tail on a bed of ‘moilee broth’ – a liquid, soupy bowl of rice flavoured with coconut chutney.

Jikoni: Home

Jikoni, London: welcoming, ravishingly delicious and bonkers

Jikoni, Marylebone: A spice sensation | London Evening Standard

Jikoni might just be the most perfectly relevant restaurant in London right now.

A saffron-infused fish pie boasts a cushion-like topping of buttery mash, grilled to the kind of crispy perfection a confident cook can pull-off at home but a restaurant would rarely try to.

Visit for the warm hospitality and the cooking, washed down by a short selection of interesting cocktails and wines, and enjoy a kind of clever comfort food quite unlike anything else you’ll find in London.

What’s most comforting of all, though, is that this culinary cultural medley feels right at home in London.

Visit if you like: Gymkhana, Queenswood, the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

Jikoni, London W1: 'The shepherd's pie on steroids I'd happily inhale ...

Jikoni’s website says they “celebrate the legacy of the many maternal figures who shared their kitchen”, so we get a cockle-warming place to sink into and dream, perhaps, of soft, embracing, motherly bosoms scented with cinnamon and vanilla.

You can’t escape the cuteness: tiny little prawn puffs are like an elf’s Cornish pasty, the light-squidgy pastry flecked with cumin seeds and stuffed with the merest suggestion of prawn; a dinky collection of scotch eggs are like a savoury version of cupcakes, bijoux little quails’ jobs perched on decorative flourishes – prawn toast scotch egg (shades of meaty prawn cracker) with banana ketchup (like salty, liquidised maltloaf) and pickled cucumber; a pumpkin version given a Middle Eastern spin with tahini, a scattering of dukkah and curls of pickled chilli; and (our favourite) slow-cooked, rich, ripe pork thick with mustard seed and topped with sticky batons of carrot and a slick of sweet-sharp tamarind.

It’s hard to resist a main course called “spiced scrag end pie”, which turns out to be a hectically sloppy mess in a decorative chafing dish, featuring potato lurid with cream and butter, and scrag end (an unsung cut from the animal’s neck, perfect for low, slow cooking) packed with ginger, cinnamon, chilli and cumin.

More sophisticated is lobster tail khichdee (sic: the ancestor of kedgeree) with “moilee broth”, a Keralan number humming with mustard seed, turmeric and coconut, with more coconut in the dhosa-style chutney on top, little dark lentils and flawless rice.

“We hope you find the food soothing and nourishing,” croons the website, and if I have a criticism, it’s that “soothing”: many plates rather disappear from consciousness as soon as they’ve disappeared down necks.